Almost every design begins as a twinkle in Greg’s eye. Once a design is finalized, Greg begins the work of making a set of steel rule dies from the pattern pieces. Dies are what enable us to make our bags efficiently. In the commercial world, cutting dies cost a great deal of money but because Greg is a die maker, this helps us to keep the price of our work reasonable and to offer multiple styles. Each pattern die is carefully positioned on the appropriate leather (lining, body, or gusset) and then cut on a swing arm press. The pieces are then assembled and sewn together. We use a technique called “stitch in the ditch” to bind the edges of the bag. This method is almost never used in commercial bags. It requires stitching the binding down twice, once blind and then hand trimming the excess. This gives our bags their distinctive look. After that, the hardware and straps are attached and it’s ready to go.
In order to make the best bags, you have to have the best leather.
Our outside leather is a vegetable tanned top grain cowhide similar to saddle leather. The color is drum dyed into the leather for full color penetration. It is embossed to our specifications at our English tannery using our own embossing plates. To accentuate the texture a pigmented topcoat is applied to the leather after the embossing. This topcoat helps to protect the leather and gives it a lustrous finish. Our lining and binding leather is made for us in the USA. We use a soft but sturdy chrome tanned cowhide that we have treated with a protective colorfast finish. The leather we use for straps and gussets is often referred to as motorcycle leather and is similar to the lining leather but thicker and tougher. Greg’s wife Sara was a fiber artist for years before she married Greg. She is responsible for the three-color combinations we use on our bags and they show her artistic touch. We use lambskin for the decorative binding because it is available in fashion colors.
We choose our hardware based on it’s beauty, functionality, and durability.
It’s not unusual for us to see a bag that has been used over twenty years with its original hardware still working. We feel confident yours will last as long.